“We never get to choose whether we live or die, we only get to choose whether we live BEFORE we die”- Konstantin Kisin
Pieter is a buddy of mine who runs a farm stall on the east side of Pretoria that Irene and I frequent. He and his wife Rochelle have two boys who are in the final throes of their studies. They have, as is the case with many families in a similar stage of life, been starved of the adventure that they crave, due to family priorities. I shared the story of my Tiddler Tour to Botswana with my son in December 2023. They kind of got a faraway look in their eyes and sort of muttered ‘if only’… This got me thinking. Both have motorcycle licences ‘from a previous life’ when scramblers were part of how they got their kicks. Before family happened; sound familiar?
“If I can organise bikes, would you be up for a Botswana trip” I asked. They responded like a couple drowning in the river of life who are suddenly thrown a lifeline. “Could you?” was their plaintive response. And so, the Botswana Boogie was born. Our route would include some good dirt but would be predominantly tar. So, what bikes? KMSA and Honda Wing SA to the rescue. A Kawasaki Versys 300 and a Honda NC 750X were locked and loaded for the trip. With the idea born in January, a date was set for July. The excitement was palpable as the time grew near. As we shared the idea with friends, the numbers increased. Steven on his KTM 1290 Adventure S was in, as was Leon, resting his trusty R 1250 GSA and commandeering his wife’s spanking new BMW R 1300 GS. My mate and fellow journo Brian, on his Honda CB 500 X was raring to go. Irene and I would be on our Triumph Tiger 900 Rally Pro. Most of the group were Botswana newbies, which is always thrilling for me. I love sharing Botswana with mates!
We met up early on a chilly Thursday morning at the Petroport just north of Pretoria. Pieter, with his dirtbike background, was at home on the Versys, whilst for Rochelle, it was love at first sight. She claimed the NC, loving the low seat height and DCT transmission. Her daily ride is a TVS Scooter, so the NC was a kind of natural progression in terms of how ridiculously easy it is to ride. Fully fuelled and bubbling over with anticipation of the adventure to come, we rode north. Vaalwater was our breakfast stop. We planned to get across the border at Martin’s Drift to overnight at Kwa Nokeng Lodge on the Botswana bank of the Limpopo—a 410k day. Eating a leisurely breakfast in a now comfortably warm 22 degrees, it quickly became apparent that we had a special group dynamic. Lighthearted banter amongst people who two hours previously were total strangers, is a real blessing. It boded well for the trip to come. My apprehension over how Pieter, and particularly Rochelle would adapt to long-distance touring on big bikes also soon evaporated. They both rode with good awareness and due restraint.
Crossing the border at Groblersbrug/Martin’s Drift is something of a lottery. The truck traffic is horrific and can cause a total snarl up given that the bridge over the Limpopo is one-way. Normal tourist traffic was light, so passport formalities were quick. We got over the bridge, danced on the foot and mouth disinfectant-impregnated sack, then rode our bikes through the similarly treated water to disinfect our tyres before repeating the border formalities on the Botswana side. Getting third-party insurance and paying Botswana road tax went reasonably quickly, and we rolled up to the lodge in the late afternoon. Sitting on the deck overlooking the Limpopo and sipping on our first St. Louis whilst shooting the breeze was rather pleasant.
There was some booking confusion, but we got it sorted and found ourselves in air-conditioned tents with en-suite amenities. A pleasant meal on the deck, then we were off to bed. We were grateful for warm beds for what was a properly chilly night. Up and about the next day the Triumph gave me an ‘Ice’ warning on the dash with the temperature hovering close to zero. We filled up with our first tank of less expensive Botswana petrol and rode a chilly 110 k’s to Palapye for a Wimpy breakfast before riding north to Francistown in now pleasantly warm weather. For me, Botswana proper starts when you see the first Makalani palm trees. About 30k’s before Nata they appear, and you know that the oasis that is Nata Lodge is not too far away. We pulled into Nata Lodge for the obligatory cold bevvie in 30-degree heat. Our thirsts slaked; we remounted the bikes for the very short ride to our accommodation at Pelican Lodge. Showered and refreshed, we enjoyed a meal under the Lapa. Pelican Lodge is showing signs of neglect despite an infrastructure that could be amazing if renovated. It seems that the owner has a new lodge in Chobe or Kasane and has lost interest in Pelican. Covid was seriously damaging to tourist-funded businesses.
Listening to the chat around the dinner table I noted that Botswana was slowly casting its spell on us all. The arid landscape, warm weather, endless blue skies and wide-open spaces conspire to bring a kind of peace to one’s soul. It is as far a cry as one can get from the hectic maelstrom that is modern city dwelling. Philosopher Henry David Thoreau, in his classic book ‘Walden’, his account of living alongside an isolated lake in the woods, made the statement that “until you take the hundreds of things that you have to consider every day and reduce them to ten’s, you will never truly understand the meaning of life”. Touring in remote areas like Botswana does that for me. The simplicity of it all just presses my reset button. I could see that we were shaking off our city-driven frenzy. It was a pleasantly weary crew that made their way to bed. There was an amazing new day awaiting us.
Unable to get accommodation at Elephant Sands, we settled for second best. We were up reasonably early and made our way to Nata Lodge for breakfast. A buffet breakfast at Nata Lodge is always special. After a hearty breakfast, we were back on the bikes for the short 58k hop to Elephant Sands. If you have read any of my Botswana stories you will know that Eli Sands inevitably features. It is a place where you experience wild African elephants in a totally unique way. Attracted by the fresh water pumped daily for their benefit they come in their droves. The sandy track from the main road to the lodge is not long but it can be properly challenging on a big adventure bike. Botswana had the driest rainy season in 40 years, resulting in the sand being pounded into fesh-fesh by the passage of vehicles. We all made it to the lodge without mishap and settled down to enjoy the pachyderm spectacle.
I love watching the first-time visitors to Elephant Sands. They gape in awe at the elephant interaction happening literally 5 metres away from them. We had an elephant patiently waiting its turn at the water trough standing so close to us we could almost reach out and touch it. There is clearly a pecking order or hierarchy amongst elephants. This is evident in the jostling and shoving that takes place as they come to drink. You can never tire of watching the elephant argy bargy. We spent the better part of the day relaxing over drinks and snacking and simply soaking it all in. At 3.30 pm we reluctantly took our leave of the incredible elephant show and got back on the bikes. Pieter and Rochelle were two-up on the Versys, sparing Rochelle a sand ordeal on the NC. The NC, with its low centre of gravity and torquey motor, is actually really easy to ride on loose surfaces, but it was not fair to expect Rochelle to wrestle it down a fesh-fesh goat track. We also had a bit more dirt in mind for later in the day.
An incredible natural feature of Botswana is the Makgadigadi pans. Sowa pan extends almost all the way from just north of Francistown all the way to Nata. The tar road running north out of Francistown runs parallel to the eastern edge of the pans. A visit to Botswana should, if possible, take in a visit to the pans. We planned to access Sowa Pan via Nata Sanctuary, about 10 k’s south of Nata Lodge. We got to the pans in the late afternoon and rode the 8 odd k’s to a lookout point. In the rainy season, this part of the pans is an inland sea dotted with thousands of pelicans and flamingos. The track was bone dry during our visit with only superficial sand in places, so it was reasonably easy to ride. We rode down onto the pans for some playtime.
Some lonely wildebeest kicked up dust as they crossed the dry pans, superimposed against a setting sun. Magic! We rode, brewed a coffee and just soaked in the magnificence of this special part of Africa. Steven let his big Katoom off the leash and flew across the pans. Leon was revelling in the nimble handling and potency of the BMW R 1300 GS. Brian had his Honda 500 X lined up for “that” shot. Pieter was in his element on the incredible little Kawi. It was the bike of choice on the dirt. In short, huge fun was had by all. We packed up and raced the setting sun as we flew down the whooped-out track back to the tar road. My Rally Pro impressed me to no end. Despite being two up and hanging on the cable it remained composed as it sang its offbeat three-cylinder song. 240 mm of Showa suspension works wonders in the dirt. We did dinner and welcome cold ones at Nata Lodge before retiring to Pelican for some well-earned sleep.
Our second last day was a short one, with a mere 180 k’s to Woodlands Camp just outside Francistown. Brian was feeling a little poorly so decided to meander there at his leisure. The rest of us opted for a cool suggestion by Steven. We rode 100 k’s to Planet Baobab, just before Gweta, for breakfast. In places, rather than keeping to the left of the road, we kept to what was left of the road. There were places where it was easier riding the dirt next to the potholed remnants of what was once a good tar road. Africa wins always! It was well worth the effort, as Planet Baobab is a special place. Laid out amongst a bunch of Baobab trees, it has an architecture that is unique but pure Africa. We had an excellent brekkie and then strolled around as the heat of the day mounted. After hydrating with a drink, we got on the bikes for the ride to Woodlands, where we rolled in with shadows lengthening. We had turned our 180 km day into a 380 km day.
Woodlands is a special place. It is well-managed and immaculately maintained. It is well worth the 8 k’s of decent dirt to get there. We stocked up on braai packs and drinks before making ourselves comfortable in our well-equipped chalets. We had the first decent fire of our trip. Listening to the banter and war stories around the braai I was reminded of how magically our group had gelled. Everyone was having a ball. Already talk was about our next Bots adventure. To the Okavango Delta perhaps? Typically, the trip seemed to have flown by, but many memories were in the making. It was a bunch of happy and content buddies that drifted off to bed as the last embers of our fire dulled.
Another perfect day dawned. Cold but crystal clear. We packed up and rode the short hop into Francistown for a Wimpy breakfast. By the time we got back on the bikes, it was comfortable riding weather. The sun had successfully beaten the early morning chill into submission. The A1 highway south can be boring and slow with all the villages that require that you slow down or risk fines, so 80 k’s out of Francistown I led the group to Selebe Pikwe at the top end of the Tuli block. It was now properly warm, so we stopped for a drink. The ride from here to the border is enjoyable, with minimum traffic and typical Botswana bush and occasional cattle posts. We filled up with our last less expensive Botswana petrol then completed our border formalities on the Botswana side in a jiffy. We then experienced the shambles of mismanagement that is a sad reflection of so much of Africa.
The completion of the bridge at Kasane now allows trucks to cross over from Zambia en-masse. Previously, the ferry drip-fed them into Botswana. These trucks, all South Africa-bound, have no regard for tourist vehicles and create a ‘truck jam’ on the South African side of the border which extends back over the bridge stopping all other vehicles from crossing. Trying to create a gap for us to get over the bridge, I walked across to see what was causing the mayhem. Speaking to a tourist waiting for a gap in the trucks on the bridge he shared that he had been stuck for two hours already as truck after truck from Botswana stopped any chance of any vehicles crossing from SA. I walked back to my bike, pulled it in front of the truck waiting to move onto the bridge and told the driver somewhat emphatically that he was going nowhere until we had crossed the bridge. Asking Botswana border officials why they did not manage the traffic over the bridge resulted in an “ask someone who cares” shrug.
Eventually, the trucks cleared the bridge, and we rode across. Asking an SA Immigration official why the situation was not managed elicited an aggressive “speak to the relevant authorities”. I reminded him that he was part of that authority, before walking away in disgust. What statement does this chaos make to tourists coming to South Africa? The answer is glaringly simple. Utilise Stockpoort border post, a mere 30 k’s away, as a trucking border and keep Groblersbrug for tourists and light commercial traffic. With our ailing economy, we need to do all we can to attract tourist money. I must stress that this was not a once-off occurrence but rather a recurring problem that we have experienced for years.
We shrugged off the frustration of the border post as we rode through the beautiful bushveld to our final night’s stay at De Kuile, 10 k’s before Lephalale. De Kuile is a typical ‘Hunter’s camp’, basic but comfortable. The short piece of dirt from the main road threw a few deep sand challenges, but we made it and while some settled in, Leon, Brian and I shot into Lephalale and bought the makings for gourmet Boerie rolls as well as some bevvies for the evening. By the time we got back a fire was roaring and Pieter was absolutely in his element. He fed the fire, sorted the coals and braaied the boerewors to perfection. The girls sorted the rolls and garnishes and before we knew it we were feasting on boerewors rolls of which legends are made!
Once again it was just so pleasant chilling at the “bushveld TV”. The wonderful way in which a bunch of virtual strangers could morph into tight travel buddies after a few days on the road was testimony to the great individuals that made up the group as well as the magic of motorcycles. Bikes unite people with a common interest in a truly unique way.
The next day saw us taking the ‘long’ way back to Vaalwater via the Thabazimbi road and then hanging a left to Vaalwater. This is 30 k’s longer, but a lovely road both scenically and surface-wise. We stopped at the Zeederburg Centre for breakfast and then reluctantly we said our goodbyes as inevitably ‘life’ started happening for all of us once again. Bring on the next one!
The bikes…
It would be remiss to conclude without an honourable mention of the bikes that made this adventure so special.
Kawasaki Versys 300
The little Kawi amazed everyone. Despite only having an engine capacity of three-quarters of a beer mug it kept up effortlessly. The little parallel twin runs at 75% of its available revs at highway speeds, but is smooth and comfortable, with the screen offering decent rider protection. Its light weight makes it a plaything in the dirt. It used no oil and ran like a… well, Kawasaki! Leon, who owns a BMW 310 GS, was gobsmacked by the little Kawi’s performance, as were we all. Huge adventure at a fraction of the price of big adventure bikes.
Honda NC 750 X
Within a day or two of throwing a leg over the DCT NC, I was totally hooked. The versatility and ease of riding that it brings to the party is in a class of one. The torquey relaxed motor, perfect ergonomics and 30km/L economy at Botswana speeds make it a pleasure to ride everywhere. The low centre of gravity keeps it stable on all surfaces. It is limited only by lowish ground clearance, so must be ridden with restraint when the going gets rough. I must own one. ‘Nuff said!
Honda CB 500 X
“I love this bike”, Brian shares with everyone who will listen, and with good reason. A handsome, tough, reliable and economical package that is probably the thinking man’s adventure bike or go-to choice for an around-the-world trip. Oh, and did I mention the amazing value proposition that it represents?
KTM 1290 Adventure S
Again, this is the thinking man’s 1290. At home on the street, where you can bait sportbikes, or roost a dirt trail, the big Katoom is hugely talented and never boring. Its 160 hp wrapped in a decent chassis has a way of getting and holding your attention.
BMW R 1300 GS
Damn! How is it that BMW just keeps making these things better? More power and torque in a smaller package is a certain recipe for success. The consummate all-rounder with enough electronic trickery to choke a mule. Where will it all end?
The People…
I asked Pieter, Rochelle and Brian, all Botswana newbies, what the trip meant to them.
Pieter:
“Botswana has always been a bucket list dream for Rochelle and me. When Dave mentioned the idea of a Botswana trip on bikes to us, I could immediately see the sparkle in her eyes and sensed a warm glow in her spirit. Something that sadly has been absent for a while…. for various reasons. I just knew then – this is something we just have to do.
So it was that we found ourselves in Dave’s garage the night before our trip, hanging on his every word as he explained the workings of the NC 750X and the Kawasaki Versys 300 to us. A change of plan. The Versys was just a bit too tall for Rochelle, so it would be her on the NC and I would be on the Versys. I must admit I looked longingly at the NC, but the little Versys would be my wheels.
Unfortunately, as with most great things in life, they pass in a flash, with not enough ‘pause time’ to take in all His amazing creation and moments given to us by God, our two-wheeled weapons were destroying the kilometres hour by hour. I had to pinch myself – this is real, this is so beautiful, THIS is life, this is friendship, this is love in various ways!
Staring into the red flames of our bushveld fire on the last night of our trip, a kind of deep sadness filled my heart. Our trip was nearing its end, soon to be only an unbelievable memory. I am saddened by the ‘why’- why not put more effort into doing the things we so enjoy and love? Why not pause and absorb more often? Why not make the effort more often to do the things that put the sparkle in our eyes and the glow in our souls?
New friends made – Irene, Brian, and Leon thank you so much you are awesome! And Steven, old friendships are like good red wine, they keep on getting better! Let’s keep stacking up the adventures. Thank you so much! Special thanks to Rochelle, my one and only ‘biker wife’, thank you for sharing the sparkle in your eyes and the glow in your soul. You made this trip a once-in-a-lifetime adventure! Thanks, Dave, for initiating and making this trip a true highlight and unforgettable experience.
And then, finally, my little travel buddy with a huge heart. My Kawasaki Versys 300 was amazing in all aspects. It showed that you can do anything on the right small bike with an affordable price tag. Somewhere, under 2300 km of African dust you may just find a hint of drool on the frame – that is how big a surprise the Kawasaki was to me. Slowing down the pace and savouring the moment might well have me considering a smaller bike…
Rochelle:
The bike: I absolutely fell in love with the Honda NC750 X and didn’t want to give it back! It was perfect for me with great handling and power for overtaking. 140 km/h on the highway felt effortless. The long sweeps freaked me out, but the NC gave me confidence.
The trip: It was beyond words! Flying (for the first time in my life) on a big bike to Vaalwater was an unforgettable rush. I felt so alive and exhilarated that I sometimes yelled out loud just to let my emotions out! (please don’t tell anyone). Our first night was more than I could have hoped for. I slept like a baby, tired out by all the excitement. Every day after that brought something new. I want to highlight the day at Elephant Sands. It felt like the rush was over and those beasts from the bush brought a calm that I can’t explain. None of us wanted to leave…. I felt small and insignificant (in a good way).
The group challenged me to try and stand on the bike occasionally while riding. This was great for the butt when I found out how easy it was! Next up was the unplanned 200 km detour to Planet Baobab. What a treat! Another place that we didn’t want to leave.
I got to know the other people in the group and we all just gelled. Everyone brought something to the table to make this the most memorable trip of my entire life. Thank you Dave for including us. It was one for the books. A personal bucket list item for me. As Steven would say – I experienced His Grace!
Brian:
It was a simple message. It simply read: “11th to 16th July. Botswana trip with guys from Pallet farm stall. You joining us hey?” It was more of a statement than a question. My reply was just as brief. A thumbs-up emoji, followed by “On my CB”. In a market where people yearn to buy the biggest and fastest, I found a perfect balance in my CB500X. Having already travelled to Lesotho, I was looking forward to exploring Botswana with it. Botswana is closer than Durban to my house, and yet, I have only ever passed through it on my way to Namibia. On this trip, I discovered that Botswana has so much more to offer, and if travelling halfway up was so rewarding, I can only imagine what treasures await when you venture further north. 2020 hit this country hard, and some establishments are still trying to recover, but the scenery makes up for it. Elephant Sands was a revelation. First that my CB 500 X can ride sand, even on road tyres, and then seeing the elephants up close, borders on magical. We spent way too little time on the pans, and this is one place I would love to return to. We merely scratched the surface of what you can experience in Botswana, and as Dave mentioned, we are already planning the next one.
If I learned one thing from this trip, it was that the size of your bike does not matter, but what does matter is the size of your appetite for adventure! This was a special trip with really special people that I will treasure for a long time. We will relive this trip one day next to a roaring fire and savouring a St Louis beer. That is a promise!
Conclusion…
So, there you have it guys. Reading this feedback is very humbling. I realised how blessed I have been to enjoy our special continent so many times from the saddle of a motorcycle. Maybe you have read this and realised that some saddle time is long overdue. Perhaps you need to buy that bike you have been pondering over. Don’t overthink it. Just do it!
